I’ve finished University for now (only one exam left and not until August :D), so have been out climbing a HUGE amount, mostly at Almscliffe.
Since doing the Keel ages ago, I’ve been attempting the Keelhaul, an 8a extension starting way at the back of the boulder and ignoring the large block used in the Keel. There are lots of big reachy moves and awkward heelhooks, but it’s exactly my sort of climbing. However, I have terrible footwork, and for about a year have been finding it impossible to keep my feet on while I match the chipped hold.
Jan Hojer’s new training video gave me inspiration to go completely the other way, ignoring using my feet and seeing what would happen if I tried monkeying my way through the crux section.
The new beta almost got me up the problem on my next session back, but once I had practiced the campusing sequence I didn’t have enough power left to send it from the start. I went back several times hoping my next fresh attempt would be the one, until one of them was!
Not the way I’d planned on doing the problem and not a way I’m sure I should be proud of, but all the same I was really pleased to get it done! I also very nearly managed to flash Underhand Extension, got it second go in the end but couldn’t believe I’d never even tried it before, it’s great. My sending spree of the day quickly got put to a stop by Pebble Wall (6c+, but feels much harder). I did eventually get it after many attempts, but not before slipping off it at the wrong moment and having my face bashed against the wall.
I’ll hopefully be going back to Almscliffe soon, I’ve now been trying Tom Peckitt’s Canine (8a) and playing around on Cherry Falls (8a+), as well as having a few pointless attempts at Brown’s Roof, a pretty big highball with a committing top out which I back out of every time!
I’ll also be going to the Leeds Uni Climbing club BBQ at caley, which is going to be incredible, and then a few days climbing around the peak district with Josh Williams!